15 April
I continued right where I left off yesterday, trying to finish as many of my A2 boards as possible. A good number of my friends spent their entire day yesterday shooting their own work, and I realized how much of a headstart I got because I decided not to do this. I didn't have any major issues when working through these, and I think this was due to the UP portfolio work. I think that my layouts were able to get across the concepts and ideas that I was exploring while also having a balance of research, markmaking, drawing, and samples.
Looking at my sheets, I am incredibly happy that they reflect the work and time I put into my Unit 7 as well as what I've learned this year about project development and presentation. I would really like to have a tutorial in class tomorrow to make sure that the sheets are coherent and show all of the work I've done. Getting Chris's opinion will really help me to make sure that my work is in line which what the tutors and evaluators expect of us.
I'm finding that I'm happy with where the work has settled and think that it is very interesting and still true to my ideas of aesthetic. Looking at the sheets I think that there is a good level of experimentation purely because of the number of different collaborators I had. This a main concern of mine when going back through the work I had done this term. I think that I am in a solid place and on track with what I had laid out in my timetable, but I need to allot more time to change and alter parts of my work the morning of handin.
13 April
Our photoshoot was today, which ended up being a bit stressful because I had to run back and forth from Archway as I had two shoots. Something that I realized after doing this was that I should have managed my time a bit better in the last few days so that I would be able to have the garment finished to a state of being photographed first thing in the morning. Instead, I did waste a bit of time have to take cars between Archway and my flat to collect garment pieces. The hem ultimately did get finished, however, so I was pleased that the garment aspect of the work is now complete.
I received a lot of positive feedback from tutors during the shoot, as Jo said that she loved all of the pieces and Patricia complimented the cone sleeve shape. I think this is starting to make me feel a lot better about the direction I took the overall shape of the jacket, even though it is much more minimal than many of the other designs. I wasn't pleased about the fit on my model, as he was much smaller than the model I had previously been fitting the garments to. The proportions of the trousers to socks was thrown off, as no leg was shown. Nonetheless, I do think that the overall image was strong, and the colors read really well.
In the afternoon I began to start laying out work for portfolio sheets, as I know from past experience that these can take a while to produce. The act of starting to sift through work and formatting files makes me a bit relieved, as I feel that I have at least started this tedious process. One thing I was finding was that I was having trouble deciding what to put in and what to edit out. I think that I've been so close to the work I've been making and I've lost a bit of judgement on what is relevant to my outcome. Getting tutorials both from peers and tutors this weekend will help me to filter through what I should put on my boards.
In the evening, I saw the Royal Ballet in 'Manon,' which isn't necessarily relevant to my work but felt it was a good way to come to a close with the project. The overall ballet was not what I was researching in terms of period or contemporary dance, but I enjoyed it very much. Classical ballet in this sense is about pure technique and showing skill to the audience. Many of the steps are not what you would see choreographed currently, but it definitely showed a different facet of the company. The overall set was beautiful but incredibly muddy and brown. Rags were hung from the back of the stage, which did work well into the tie period and concept of the work.
I still have quite a lot of work to complete this weekend, but I am glad that the garment is done. Updating my sketchbook and Workflow and finishing my A2 sheets are the components of my work completion.
11 April
My morning was spent catching up on Workflow, but for the most part mine was up to date. I do think that I use Workflow as a tool to progress in my development work, to better understand my research sources and design process. I find that keeping an archive of research really allows you to respond to it visually, and it feeds into your own work in a variety of ways.
I also created an accurate timetable for the upcoming week to ensure that I can finish all the major work I need for hand-in. Continually updating this and making adjustments as they arise really allows yourself to gauge the amount of work you have before I deadline. Although I normally just make bullet lists, accurately planning and timetabling all activities creates a more accurate representation of time.
I struggled a lot with making the afternoon and I think that this was mostly due to fabric selection. The wool and silk did not sit properly together which caused the facing to curve and warp. I'm realized that I would have to make a quick decision that in the long run will benefit me greatly, which would be to remove the hidden placket.
I went back to the research on Savile Row tailoring, and found a lot of images of blazers and suit jackets. I decided to take the traditional two-button blazer and subvert it by placing a single button instead. I think this was an instance where research really aided my design process. I was feeling a bit lost because the hidden placket didn’t work construction-wise, but I was able to find a suitable alternative in a short amount of time. I’m learning to be alright with the fact that the garment may not be exactly as I planned in my head, and sometimes this is for the better. In the instance, the final outcome will have more elements of the initial research.
I re-evaluated my timetable and made some adjustments based on my work today. I want to give myself more time over the next few days to work on my final outcome. I don’t want to rush finishings, and so I need to plan around this. My sketchbook is nearly up to date, so I just need to make adjustments to this and Workflow. The A2 sheets I need to start planning, but I will plan to work on these this weekend. If I cannot have my own shoot, I can use the images from the Friday photoshoot. I’m learning that not everything can be done the way you imagine it when working with a deadline. Learning to know where to best allocate my time is important to meeting all the criteria for hand-in.
9 April
Today was our first taught day after break and was mostly focused on peer critiques. We looked at all of the Unit 7 work we had done thus far and also went through the grading criteria. I think that this exercise was particularly important and helpful in being able to see mock grades from another student. I received both merits and passes, as I was expecting from my work today. I definitely feel that there are holes in my work that I need to fill prior to hand-in next Tuesday.
Over break I feel that most of my time was spent on 3-d making, less work being done in my sketchbook and on Workflow. There is a lot of imagery that I have digitally that hasn't been put into my book, which makes the project lack overall. Making sure that my time is well managed over the next week is absolutely essential to finishing all areas of Unit 7.
Being able to view everyone else's work was also really stimulating to my process. Being able to understand the amount of work as well as the quality of work is helpful to gauge my progress against someone else's. I think that I'm seeing what I still need to do and understand how I should be moving forward.
As for completing the project, I need to focus on splitting my time between all three areas. Working first on 3-d making and garment finishing is my plan because of the photoshoot we have on Friday and my own photoshoot that I have to do this weekend. I definitely feel that my sketchbook is lacking in quantity and missing documentation of process. I was reminded by Olly during our peer critique that toiles should make themselves extremely present and knit samples add to the experimentation aspect of the grading method. Criteria such as time management skills, annotations in sketchbook, and added primary research need to be completed prior to next week.
I definitely feel a bit overwhelmed by the amount of work I still want to complete before next week. Timetabling out all of my steps will be key to ensuring that I stay on track with my work.
4 April
I've been continuing with garment making the past few days, and everything has been moving along well. I received back the embroidered piece which both turned out very nicely. I realize that I don't have the time to create two looks, and it would be much smarter moving forward to focus my time on one outfit. The jacket will take a large amount of my time, and I don't want to rush the making process. Making sure all of the seams are clean is really important to me, as I think that construction is important to presentation. I'm planning on having all of the shell completed for our first taught day back, and work on the facing and lining prior to the photoshoot.
The patterns for the trousers were already prepared so I went ahead and started cutting them. I always find trousers very relaxing to make and definitely calmed me down from the work on the jacket. The embroideries on the knees made me really pleased, as they worked with the research I had been looking at.
I think that I'm moving along well, as 3-d making always takes a lot of time. I'm glad that I have the space to work from home, as I never feel I have the space to make in London. I'm trying to get as much work done prior to taught class so that I have less work to do the week before submission.
29 March
Today I received back the wool that I had custom dyed to the colorway that I need for the jacket I am constructing. I was really pleased with the outcome of the dyeing process, as the colors were matched exactly to my specifications. Because of the process, the wool stiffened some which unexpectedly will work to my advantage. Tailoring a stiffer fabric will be easier, and the textile will hold up the shape better.
The entire process of dyeing fabric reminds me to think in creative ways regarding the way in which textile can be achieved. With additional time, the options are endless by which you can alter fabric. Dyeing is a technique that I haven't made use of this year and I'm glad that I had the opportunity to test this with an unusual fabrication. Wool can felt easily, so working with dyers who know fiber content well helps to prevent damage.
I worked briefly on design development in the evening, as I'm heading home tomorrow. I definitely have to start working at full speed for the next week, both in my sketchbook and with my 3-d making work. Working from pattern to toile to final garment is going to be vital to ensuring I stick to my timetable.
23 March
Although not necessarily relevant to this project specifically, I want to reflect about something that Chris had talked about in regards to collaboration. He had discussed how working with other designers and gaining experience through internships is incredibly important to fashion design. Seeking out individuals to work with the help strengthen and develop your project is also really important. I have been trying to make use of all possible opportunities whilst at CSM, and I have just begun to realize how many more opportunities there are for fashion in London than there are in Los Angeles, my hometown.
There is such an expanse of designers working in London, both large and small, and I definitely want to seek out more internship opportunities once hand in is over come April. One such occurred impromptu today with Lucas from Stella McCartney who asked if I wanted to accompany him to a private Bottega Venneta sample sale and to visit the Chalayan and boutique. I gained a lot of knowledge about Chalayan as a brand in a short time by speaking to his contacts there. I came to the realization of how interconnected the industry is and the potential of one person to infiltrate a number of different brands. Interning and working at a multitude of brands helps in building contacts.
In the evening I attended a triple bill of contemporary works performed by the Royal Ballet. The work that was incredibly relevant to my research was the first of the three performed, a new piece by Wayne McGregor. The minimalism of the movement, costumes, and set design all worked in his favor to create a stunning visual effect. I’m finding that minimalism can still take the form of vibrant colorways. Minimalism can take many different forms and is a point of view that is incredibly versatile.
21 March
The main item from my day was the send the fabric to the embroiderer for my final outcome. Because the turnaround time for this is slower than a process like digital embroidery or digital printing, I needed to ensure that enough time would be given for me to still construct the garment once the work was finished. I was really happy with the designs that I was able to achieve in collaboration with Nancy. I think that I scaled them up in an interesting way and considered placement on the body as well. Sizing of print is always important, as it can greatly affect the way the garment is viewed.
We spoke about the concept of her work and she describes her drawings as "a study of breath. Each line is reflective of a breath that I've taken." I work the way in which this fit into the ideas of man and machine, building up the interplay of the subjects. I love how the use of hand embroidery adds a personal quality to the work as well. The visual would be incredibly different if it was machine embroidered. Considering the style of print and embroidery is something I've really thought about with this project, as it has to reflect the research and mood of the project and research.
19 March
The main feature of our day today was a finishings workshop we had with Chris, in which we were asked to create a series of pocket samples based on our research. I think that I struggled a bit with this concept, as the types of finishings I tend to like are traditional tailoring finishings. Double welt and single welt pockets often feature on my designs, rather than sportswear finishes or non traditional menswear methods. Especially since my project is based around the ideas of Savile Row tailoring, I feel it is necessary to use such methods. I can understand the reasoning for experimenting in this way, but I don’t feel it is necessarily relevant to my current work.
I also worked a bit on the knitting machine to create a sample based on one of my research images. I built an inverted stripe pattern that I liked, but I don’t feel that the colors were in line with what I wanted in the end. I did like how the mix of yarn weights creates different textural elements in the sample. I am rethinking the possibility of adding knit into my outcome, which is why I wanted to play around on the machine.
I worked on beginning to format embroideries in the evening. I realize how early I have to send off the designs in order to get them back for my final outcome. Getting the images printed at a high resolution and getting them to India in a timely manner will ensure this.
16 March
I started my day fabric sourcing in Soho, and I found an incredible handwoven silk that I want to use for my final outcome. I definitely need to start finding textiles to start the embroidery process next week. I always look for fabric that will tailor up the way I want it to but also have a softer drape. The color was one that came directly from the research, and I wanted to be sure that the design decisions came from the research.
I definitely have to build more design developments to find the shapes for the garments. I need to allocate time this weekend purely to drawing so that I have a clearer idea of what the final shape will be. Even drawing a series of flats would help in achieving this.
I worked mostly on my computer in the afternoon, as I wanted to go back through all of the images I had compiled in my most recent research. I hadn’t responded to the images I took at Studio Wayne McGregor and these were an integral part of the project development. I also went back and looked at the photos from my fitting with Mika yesterday.
I wanted to start testing new color ways, and found that the triadic color way fit the jacket better than the colors I had previously been experimenting with. I began working very crudely in Photoshop to place these on the body and see where the placements would work best. I'm finding the color palette more clearly here and feel that I am able to see the project clearer now.
14 March
I spent my day split between the two projects, developing both further prior to the critique tomorrow. The sketchbook for my Harrods project was continued with so that a better understanding of the concept and direction I was taking the final outcome would be present.
In terms of my Unit 7, I did a bit more research to clarify the concepts for myself in response to my tutorial with Helen. I revisited the initial research source, the Triadic Ballet, so that I could understand the ideas surrounding movement in this era. Helen thought that I had restricted the shapes of the body in my designs and pared down a lot of the interesting details. I found that Oskar Schlemmer liked the artificiality of movement practice and wanted to see how the body would be restricted and stagnant because of the costumes. I though that his consideration of the abstraction of the body (a cylinder for the neck, a circle for head and eyes) was something that I should consider as well.
I formulated a way to take on the final two design ideas––one would be based on Schlemmer’s idea that the man is the machine and the restriction of the body, where the other would be based on the concept that the body is a mechanism and has freer approaches to movement. I think that this idea is quite solid and a way to develop the designs more easily.
In the evening I worked on pattern cutting basic shapes to test on my model that I knew I wanted to use no matter the final garment design. The raglan sleeve and balloon trousers were definitely integral to the structure of the clothes, and I constructed these in calico for a fitting.
12 March
I had my tutorial today with Helen which gave me a lot of insightful thoughts on how to progress with my work. We spent a good amount of time discussing my Unit 7 project, which I am most excited by. She felt that the project was developing well, but thought I was rushing too quickly into a final outcome. Creating a timetable for the remainder of the term would help in making sure I allot enough time to each part of the project.
I definitely agree with her that I haven’t done enough design developments to begin my final outcome. I think that I always am concerned about not leaving myself enough time to sew and construct the final garment, leading me to have a false start. I do think that it’s fine to be pattern cutting and toileing, as long as the design developments are there to back it up.
I voiced my concern to her about how whenever I start pattern cutting the work in my sketchbook doesn’t move forward. Helen suggested allowing yourself to be free from your book at this time, and scheduling in a few days where you only allot yourself to 3-d making.
For my Harrods work, she said to take an almost anarchist stance and approach the project from that perspective. We both agreed that the objects themselves read much stronger than the photographs and prints. I definitely need to reconsider the way that I’m working in my book, as the minimalist taste isn’t reflecting the concepts I’m delving into in the work. I really need to think about what I would like to present as a final outcome, as our crit is on Thursday. I still feel that I’m getting stuck in the same place, as any place that I try to take the project is not as interesting as the objects themselves.
9 March
My day was spent mostly pattern drafting, as I wanted to start working on the jacket for my Unit 7 work. This is definitely the most difficult shape that I’ve had to make before, and the fact that it is very tailored is tricky as well. I felt that the best way to start this process would be to dive into building the main body of the jacket. I had spent a good amount of time conceptualizing the shapes in my head, but I realized that without actually drafting these there was no point.
Starting to patterncut these full size for the body was very relaxing to me, surprisingly. Once I started I felt that I knew what I was doing and how to develop all of the shapes. Having a raglan sleeve block that I drafted previously was incredibly useful, as I didn't have to take the time to build this from scratch. The once issue I'm having is not having professional dressform. This is really frustrating, as I can't test shapes directly on the body.
I worked with a new acquaintance of mine, a menswear designer for Stella McCartney, in the evening. He looked over my patterns and said that everything looked just as he would make it. He gave me a lot of tips on sewing jackets, as I don't have a lot of experience in doing so. Small pointers, like cutting down the facing 2mm to have the jacket fit the body better or basting in bias silk or ribbon to the front collar to stabilize the shape more, are really useful to my knowledge of garment construction. He also told me to remove any panels that are simply design details for the toile, as they won't affect the fit of the garment. These can be drawn in on the model to the visual of what it will look like.
I find that I really like to have another person agree with my design decisions, mostly for validation I'm realizing. I don't think that any of the design decisions change, I just like to have someone who agrees with me. I definitely just have to be confident in my decision making and trust that I'm making the right choices for my work.
We had a long discussion about the industry, and a lot of what he said really resonated with me. He said that his tutors at Arnhem said he work was too graphic and preferred more hand-drawn work, though he worked digitally often. At Stella, he uses a lot of digital techniques to build print. We both definitely have major appreciation for expensive textiles and not cutting corners. He designed footwear for his graduate collection that he had custom produced. I'm happy to know that someone who works similarly to me was able to find a solid industry job and be successful with their practice
7 March
I began my day at Studio East to carry out research with Wayne McGregor. I was incredibly lucky that the Associate Artistic Director, Odette Hughes, allowed me to take class with the company. I got some great stills from iPhone videos that I can definitely include in my project. The dancers at Studio Wayne McGregor are able to move their bodies in incredibly fascinating ways, and Wayne is very interested in the potential of the body. His interest in science and research has "evolved into a sustained programme of research exploring both the nature of dance-making and the intelligence of the body."
Carrying out primary research in this manner is incredibly inspiring to me, as I have a love for dance and movement that matches that I have for fashion. I'm really glad that I decided to use this as the centerpiece of the research for my personal project.
Later in the afternoon I went to Bethnal Green to source products for my Harrods project. I wanted to start with just 5 items to use, as I don’t want to overwhelm my self with work before my tutorial. I only intend to buy and create all 26 if chosen to continue with the project. I intend to work on stenciling and spray painting these in class tomorrow. I found bin bags, a toilet plunger, a hand-clapper toy, tea towels, and leather workman gloves that are all relevant to the project. I think that the humorous aspect of the project comes into play when the items are either really on-brand or entirely off-brand for the companies I pick. These definitely add to the wittiness of the project.
In the evening I continued with sketchbook work, particularly design development for Unit 7. I wanted to render these to get a clear idea of how the final outcomes will look, and decide scale and placement of the embroideries. I definitely need to get all the embroidery designs sized by the end of the week so that everything will be able to completed in time with the construction techniques I want to use.
I made the decision to wait until I take a trip to New York over spring break to buy wool for the jacket. I’m not finding what I want here London, so I’m hoping that New York will have a wider selection. I definitely want to use a double faced wool so that the structure will hold.
5 March
We started our day with individual tutorials to get feedback on our Harrods project thus far. Chris actually liked the direction I was taking the project, going down a much more satirical, humorous route than I usually do. He felt that rather than using already stylized objects that are on the marker, finding new items to brand would be better. Balenciaga bins and Fendi scissors were some of the ideas he threw out, but the ridiculous notion is that these items would actually sell. He really did like the first silk scarf test that I had done, and said he could see that sold at Harrods. The one major note, however, is to find a tangible outcome. I think that I’m struggling to find where the work is going to settle because I’m still focused on having my Unit 7 work be the project I continue for the remainder of the course. I don’t really see myself continuing the Harrods project, and as such I don’t have a long-term plan for the outcome.
Something about the fact that I don’t really care or feel emotionally attached to the subject has allowed me to quickly come up with a lot of solid ideas, though. I find that really caring about your work can be difficult sometimes because you feel incredibly nervous to mess up or ruin the work. I’m definitely learning to free up my approach more with the project, and I think it’s working well.
I also picked a smaller sketchbook for this project, which makes working in it less intimidating. There’s something nice about the paperback form of this one as well, and it’s very comfortable for me to work in.
In the afternoon I began pattern cutting a pair of trousers to start getting 3-d with my Unit 7 work. The one part about patterncutting toileing that can be frustrating is that there’s no clear progress in your book that is made when you do this step. Obviously the toiles are seen on the model in photographs, but for such a time consuming process the payoff is not a lot. This is a step that just has to be done, not matter how long it may take.
2 March
I did some research at the library today for the Harrods brief, looking at research sources that could be of interest. The snow has really put a damper on the primary research that I want to do and has stalled the development of my Unit 7 so I’m trying to work on other things to get my brain developing new ideas.
I didn’t find anything that I found particularly stimulating, so I decided to make collages that would build my interest for the project. One of the first initial ideas I had was to collage a bunch of the items from a 1929 Harrods catalog onto one of the Green Man, implying that they are a manifestation of all of the products sold in the store. Since they are a symbol of the store, I definitely feel that this is a concept I can explore. I also looked at a book of silk scarves by Hermés, which I find to be a height of luxury. The incredibly detailed prints and vibrant colors used have high aesthetic value as well. I’m not sure if I will be able to incorporate this aspect into my project, but I definitely feel it is relevant research.
I think that I’m struggling to find a way in to the project thus far, as nothing has been particularly influential to ideas of garment thus far. I may approach this as a textile or product design project and see where the outcome lands. Going to Harrods to do primary research will definitely help my process.
28 February
I worked on sampling today to take my mind off of UP decisions being released the afternoon. I definitely had a lot different feelings in the morning, and tried to make a sample that would be time consuming. In actuality this didn’t work, but was a good attempt and allowed me to create a sample that I was happy with. What Helen discussed about actually responding to your research really resonated with me, and I wanted to recreate the breath lines in a work by my collaborator Nancy. I found that this was quite a successful sample and was heightened by the use of markmaking on the sketchbook page.
I thought about how I wanted my project to progress, as I’m finding that it’s much easier to get stuck when having a long term project. Continually finding pieces of my work that I want to develop further or new research items that could inform design is important to the long term development of the work. Changing between design mediums—2-d to 3-d, drawn to sewn, small to large—are all ways to continue progressing.
In terms of UP, I received an offer for Menswear at CSM which I was very excited about as this was my first choice. I definitely realize how important construction is to Menswear and want to take this into my Unit 7 work.
26 February
Today we had group tutorials with our tutors to looks at the progress of our Unit 7 work thus far. I got positive feedback from both Chris and the peers that were in my group, which made me feel confident about the direction I’m taking my work. I think that because I had more time to formulate concepts and ideas on my own, I was much more prepared for the tutorial. The ideas were developed further and I had delved much further into the design process.
Some important notes that I received that I need to take as I continue moving forward are to continue experimenting with color since I want this to be present in my final outcome. Continually developing the idea of the triad is important to have the concept be clear in the work as well. Chris said to apply rules to yourself and to find restrictions in your work; this will allow the design to become more interesting in development stages.
I also need to continue finding physical research sources to draw from and carrying out tests as primary research. I definitely know that I need to find more primary research sources, and Chris really encouraged me to work more with Sebastian. A point of discussion we had was where fashion is and how this differs from the Savile Row tailoring ideas. There is something ergonomic about where clothing is now and where it will develop, and perhaps melding this with the traditional ideas of tailoring could be an interesting mix.
I definitely feel that this project has lots of rich source material that I can pull from and develop into a strong final outcome.
23 February
Today I started my morning at ballet class where I found a model that I want to use for the final outcome of my Unit 7 work. I spoke with him after class and discovered that he actually performed the Triadic Ballet at the Bavarian State Ballet. I definitely want to have models that work with movement for this project, so I would love to work with him. He seemed keen about working together as well, which always makes me more excited about the prospect of collaboration.
I previously contacted Studio Wayne McGregor about taking company class as a means of primary research, but I haven't received a response yet. If I don't receive I response, I'll go to open ballet class again next week and take some informal videos to get some research on movement. There is a loop guitarist and pianist that plays on Wednesdays, so I think this could be a perfect day to collect some primary research. Having stills to pull from video clips would be invaluable to my research process.
I did some research later in the day and discovered something that perfectly encapsulates all of the ideas that I want to explore for this project. William Forsythe worked with technologists from Ohio State University to present data visualizations of his ballet 'One Flat Thing, reproduced.' The project called 'Synchronous Objects' is "both a research tool for exploring the structures of a dance and a wildly creative extrapolation of the way that those structures can be pictorially expressed."
The interface presents three methods of quantifying the dance performance: movement motifs, cues and alignments, or moments of synchronization. The software includes 20 “objects,” or forms of visualization of the dance’s structures, that create different, yet synchronous, ways of experiencing the work. I was particularly interested in the Movement Motifs, which are presented chronologically alongside a video of the ballet. The blocks in the shapes reminded me of the block shapes in Bauhaus weaves.
This is definitely the best way to present the knit work in my opinion; conceptually this makes the most sense to my process and begins the interplay between the Bauhaus ideas and the computerization of movement.
20 February
I started my morning in Soho to start researching fabrics for my garment designs. I know that I would like to use a cashmere wool in some of the pieces, so I immediately searched for these. Textiles may not be available in the specifics colors that you want so browsing early to see if you will have to alter a colorway or order a piece of fabric in a particular color.
I’m finding that I’m a bit confused by what colorways I want to use so I felt that looking at viable options would be a good way to start solidifying ideas. I found beautiful cashmere wools in a few shades I liked—I particularly enjoyed a mustard and a rose shade I found. I’m deciding how I want to offset these with a third color, and I think that using a light shade of blue could be the answer. I’ll have to experiment with these in my sketchbook to find a triadic mix I like.
I went to the library to continue with my work in the afternoon. I feel that my speed in my sketchbook work is developing rather slowly, but the concepts that I'm trying to translate are coming across clearly. I find that when working with hyper-conceptual ideas the visuals have to be very strong; all of the ideas presented have to be in response to the main concept that is being explored.
16 February
Today was a continuation of my work from yesterday, building some experiments with acetate to start developing the idea of the optical illusion. I’m really becoming interesting in shift shape and lenticulars, and started printing images in repetition on acetate to see how they would function when shifted. The experiments were not as successful as I had anticipated, primarily due to the excessive use of black in the images I printed. When shifted much of the image was lost due to the black background. I want to try more tests, this time removing the background so only the main of photograph will be present. I want to try a test with a model in which I take a series of images of him walking, then splaying the photos in colors that have become present in my research development.
I’m finding that the bright colors need to be muted down and balanced with neutral tones already in my sketchbook. I think that it’s very good that I’m able to see this very early on in my book and can see this moving forward.
I always find that this early in my project is where is start to bounce around between different ideas without solidifying a concept that ties them all together. I’ve learned to trust the process, because this will make itself present as I move forward. Generating a systematic way to generate work will also arise.
I definitely feel that I need to do a lot more research into that tailoring aspect of the project, but I feel that I have a good start. I want to do some primary research on Savile Row, documenting the work of the tailors in the workshops. I find that research and response happens in continuous cycles for me, as I will never be done with research. Interesting parts of the sources materials will continue to make themselves present as I move forward.
13 February
Today I began initial research for my Unit 7 work by attending a performance by the Royal Ballet of ‘The Winter’s Tale.’ Although this doesn’t precisely relate to the concepts that I want to research for my project, I’m finding it very important to witness as much movement-based practice as possible.
The evening’s work was a full-length ballet choreographed by Christopher Wheeldon on the company, based upon the Shakespearean play of the same name. There definitely was a specific style adhered to in the design of sets and costumes. I thought that the stylistic qualities were effective in showing the change of location between Sicily and Bohemia.
One of my favorite part of the work was a massive tree that formed the set for the act set in Bohemia. There were load of medallions and tassels hung from the branches that created a really beautiful effect. Although I’m not found of ornate design, I do quite like the idea of sampling with tassels.
I’m finding that there is always a theatricality to ballet––this is something I want to keep in mind during the development stages of my project. Although I can appreciate this aspect of dance, I definitely don’t want my work to have a humorous feeling. I feel that there can still be playfulness in a serious context, and that duality is definitely making itself present in the research.
The other idea that the performance sparked was to interact with professional dancers and companies as a means of primary research. Contacting individuals who would want to experiment with movement could really aid my project development. I would definitely like to take open company class with Studio Wayne McGregor as a way to document motion.
16 April
I had a final tutorial with Chris today which went very well. He said that loved the final garment and I've done a lot of strong work this term. The main point he mentioned to me was that collaboration was an integral part of my project development and this was not displayed well in my sketchbook. He said to make use of the evaluation to explain to examiners the different designer and practitioners I worked with. Having such a positive critique definitely made me feel confident about completing the work, and I feel I have a grasp on the different elements I need to have done.
My main focus during class was getting the written sections of my project completed. I had work to do writing my evaluation and artist statement, and I felt it was important that these were clear and concise. I think that the work is now clear to be, so I could explain the important concepts that I explored throughout Unit 7.
My afternoon and evening were long, mostly focused on completing portfolio sheets and sketchbook work. The most important element of my sketchbook was documenting all of the work I did near the end of the course. When I started garment making, my sketchbook got put to the side and thus a lot of elements were missing. Chris and I talked about how I needed more pure photographic imagery to show all of the collaborative work I did. Adding these in definitely helped make the end of my book not so abrupt.
I still am not pleased with my final lineup, and I want to put more work into this in the morning before hand in. My hand in time was changed to 2pm so I have some time in the morning to tidy up anything that I feel is disorganized. The best way to keep on top of my work has been through listing every single item of work I need to do. It will be a hectic morning, but I think that I will be able to get everything done as I would like.
14 April
My day was spent in the library working on my A2 sheets. I planned to have last fitting with my original model so that I could get some quick photos of him wearing the garment for fit. I had been intending to do my own shoot, but with scheduling this wasn't possible. The photographer and model that I wanted to use were not available at the same time so there isn't a feasible section of time between now and Tuesday to do so. I realize that it is more important for my time to work on my sketchbook and Workflow than try to shoot the garment myself. I don't think that spending time on a shoot would be a successful use of my time.
I had a late start to my morning, but I did get working on my sheets. I thought that the best way to decide layout would be to take photocopies of all of my strong sketchbook pages and move these around on the A2 boards. I did think that keeping the boards minimal would help the presentation, and someone mentioned that they liked the idea of keeping the linearity throughout the entirety of the portfolio. I definitely was the sheets to reflect the style and concepts that I've been exploring the past few months, and this is something to keep in mind as I solidify these.
I took back all my work to my flat was able to lay out everything on the floor which I found was a very successful way of working for me. Being able to view everything in its entirety as it would be as they were flicked through was very help to understanding the flow of the sheets. I realized early on that my lineup was not as strong as it needed to be, and I should spend more time rendering designs for a final board. Without having the space to view all of the A2 sheets I don't think my presentation would have been as successful. I also wouldn't have been able to see the gaps that I needed to fill in the work.
12 April
My day was purely a sewing day, although this was not what I originally intended. I had scheduled out my day to have time to work on sketchbook and Workflow in the afternoon, but the garment lining was incredibly time consuming. Molding the silk lining into place by hand took much longer than I thought, as I also had to hand baste it in place. The silk ended up being rather slippery which meant that it didn't want to conform to the curves on the jacket facing. I realized that the only way to get this done would be to not worry about time and focus on finishing the jacket as beautifully as possible.
I have found that it's hard for me to time plan my garment making as it does take a long time. Finishings by hand always require a lot of tedious work, and it was my decision at the start of my project to use traditional techniques like these. The hem of the garment was not finished by the afternoon, but I decided that it would be smarter to begin work on my other supporting work for hand-in. Our tutors have made it very clear that the outcome is not the only part of the grading process. Allocating equal time to finishing each stage is vital this last weekend.
10 April
Our day in uni was spent working on timetabling the last week of the course, as well as continuing with our work independently. At this point, my garment is in good shape but I need to catch up on my sketchbook development and Workflow. We were also told that we need to create a series of A2 sheets for our hand-in as well. The time needed to format and layout these sheets is substantial, and I definitely have to spend a good amount of my weekend on these.
A great deal of stress has been caused by trying to figure out a photoshoot with my chosen model and photographer. Trying to fit this in is really important to me so that the way in which I view my garment is shown to the tutors reflects my viewpoint. We were told to think a lot about styling with out garment and make sure this reflects the research and overall mood of the garment. I like to pair my garment with socks, and I need to source these prior to the shoots.
I went the library to work on printing out all of the additional research, collages, and toile images I had previously prepared. I'm finding it increasingly important to print out and layout all the pieces of my work so that I can clearly see everything and how it should be formatted. Not having all of the imagery in front of my makes it difficult to move forward with the work, as the overall sense of the project is not as prevalent.
As talked about in my peer tutorial with Olly yesterday, it's important to show all the stages of making, from fabric swatches to toiles to final design on the body. I think that I sometimes forget how vital these parts all are to the design process, and these don't just have to be shown towards the end. Placing more making work earlier in the sketchbook allows the project progress to be more clear, and thus this grading criteria is met.
I want to continually refer to the grading sheet over the next week to make sure I am meeting each area. I'm definitely still aiming for a merit or distinction, and as such I feel that I have a lot more work to go. I want to balance sketchbook work, Workflow, garment making, and A2 sheets, splitting my time wisely between all.
5 April
I worked today with a friend on mine who's a professional dancer in Los Angeles on primary research. I wanted to take some video clips of her moving around the studio so that I would be able to use them as part of the movement graphs. We talked a lot about the type of movement that we were both interested in, and I showed her a lot of the research I had been doing in accordance with the project. I got some really nice videos of her that I want to take stills from for my sketchbook. The shapes of her body could definitely inform more shapes moving forward, even if these are just theoretical designs.
We had spoken about the impetus for dance movement, as I had looked more at conceptual work that was driven my aesthetic rather than inward sensations. As she had both trained in classical ballet as well as contemporary forms of dance, we were both intrigued by geometric forms in choreography that are nontraditional. I think I am interested in unemotional styles of movement, which definitely informs the way I see design as well.
In the evening I was invited to an opening at the Ralph Pucci Gallery, which featured mid-century furniture by Pierre Paulin. Furniture was a main part of the research I had been doing more research. I was really intrigued with the variety of shapes the chairs were taking, as well as the colorways from this period.
Getting to see work in person is really important to research, as you get an entirely different feel and physicality that you don't get with secondary research. There is a limit to what secondary research can give you, and getting to interact with the research sources is really inspiring to me.
Primary Research with Katherine Cowgill
1 April
Today was my first day back in Los Angeles since my holiday to New York, and I immediately started working on my final garment making. There were adjustments I had to make on my toiles, as well as patterncutting the cone shape for the sleeve. This was definitely the most difficult part of the garment, and I decided after researching to create this digitally and print out the pattern fullscale. I found a conal fructum creator that was able to build the shape I wanted; creating accurate measurements was the key to ensuring this would fit properly.
I cut a toile in canvas, which actually ended up being more difficult that I thought. Because canvas doesn't stretch or conform to curves, the fabric was not an accurate representation of the wool textile. When I started cutting and sewing the wool the making was much easier, and the shapes held up properly. I was really pleased with the start of the garment, as I felt that the design and the shape lines were coming through clearly.
I feel that I am falling behind on the sketchbook, as I don't have printer access over break but I am formatting everything in Photoshop to have them prepared when I return to uni. I'm just trying to have everything as ready as possible, with my design collages and additional research I want to include.
I realize how little time we have remaining, and I want to try to stick to my timetable as much as possible. Ensuring that every point is met on my schedule will allow me to complete the project criteria on time.
26 March
My day was spent fabric sourcing in Manhattan's garment district. I was really searching for the proper wool coatings that would hold their structure properly considering the design I want to construct. I want to eliminate as much need for infrastructure with canvassing as possible, as this is unusual for an overcoat. I tend to feel that bought interfacings can cheapen a garment and often ruin fine fabrics.
I was unhappy with the fabric selection I was seeing, particularly in regards to color, as I couldn't find the weight and quality I wanted in the hues I had selected. I had previously spent so much time selecting and mixing colors, so I felt that to totally ignore these would be such a shame.
I thought of the possibility of dyeing white or cream colored wool and worked very quickly to get this done the same afternoon. I'm learning to think about different possibilities for sourcing textiles, finding materials as needed, and working incredibly quickly to get this accomplished. Rethinking traditional ways of developing textiles is something that I should always consider in garment making.
22 March
I spent class working on developing samples and creating abstracted design developments from my collages. I had started some initial sampling ideas that I hadn’t gotten around to completing previously, so I was able to revisit these with a clearer idea of how they would function in a garment context. I do think that my vision for my final outcome has become more solidified as I’ve continue with design development.
In terms of sampling, I primarily worked on finishing up hand embroidery samples. I had worked a lot on building responses that directly correlated to my research, as discussed in the workshop with Helen. These were quite time consuming because of the stitches I chose, and I wanted to go back and work into them further. I’m glad that I had the time to do so today because I feel that these textile responses are much clearer now.
I also worked briefly on the knitting machine to test out a mock ribbing for the knitted band I want to create. I definitely am finding that working in the correct materialization of yarn is really important to making knit samples. I haven’t sources the yarns I want to use for the piece yet so I have been using random yarn cones. In terms of color and fiber content they are not what I want so the samples aren’t accurate to what I want the knit to look like. I need to start looking for materials earlier on in my process so that I can create more relevant samples.
I thought a lot about what Helen and I had discussed regarding quick responses to my collages, and so I created more abstract shapes in my design development drawings. I think that the mix of material and minimalism in the shapes really helped to get across design communication. There were some interesting forms that could be interpreted from these drawings—I really began to understand the importance of creating the mid-point in my designs. There is more obscurity in what an outcome could be when viewing one of these drawings. Creating many of these in repetition will allow me to create a broader series of potential designs.
I’m finding that I have a much clearer understanding of my design process for this project and how to develop and finish the work I need to before hand in. The tutorial I’ve had and reactions to my work have really helped to find a way in to my outcome, and I’m finding that my sketchbook progression is much stronger now.
20 March
Danielle and Helen discussed time management today and scheduling our time from now until the end of the term. I definitely think this was useful because I was jumping forward a bit in my project timeline. I definitely enjoy 3-d making more, which causes me to start a final outcome too soon. It’s important that I stick to a rigid timeframe over the next few weeks, because there are a lot of moving parts to completing the work I want to do.
I had a tutorial in the afternoon, and the main topic we discussed were design developments. Helen said I should create designs in three stages—initial collages, quick sketches, and a more technical rendering. I definitely agree with what she said, and I’m finding that I’m understanding what I have to do to complete the work for this project.
We had a scavenge exercise where we were asked to collect items and present them in an installation of some sort. I worked with found objects from around Archway and placed them in a formation of a dress form. I didn’t think that the outcome would be interesting, but Danielle felt it could lead to a print design. Helen thought that more impulsive work like this would help the development of my project. The exercise made me realize that different materializations can still have your aesthetic stamp on it. No matter the choice of material, you can still arrange them in a way of your choosing.
My evening was spent developing the final print designs for the embroidery work. Working in collaboration with Nancy Riegelman has been incredibly successful, and I'm very pleased with the designs. I think that they both reflect the concept and the visuals that I had been previously exploring. I'm excited to see these completed, as they will help to move the garment design forward.
17 March
I worked in the library today, as I needed to print out more research to move my project forward. I decided to go back through my Workflow research to find images that I hadn’t touched on yet. Responding to these allowed for successful sketchbook development pages that helped to drive the concept of the overall project forward.
I realized how hands-on I wanted to be with my work and how I felt I needed to start responding to my research and sampling. I hadn’t felt this way since the very beginning of the project, and I’m realizing how necessary this is to my garment design. Working with embroidery is really important to show how this develops over the course of the book. Even creating small responses shows development over the entirety of the work.
I do feel that I need to find a way to get more experimental with the project. I'm planning on working in the studio with a friend of mine when I get home to Los Angeles as way to get physical with the project. Finding new ways to collage and create design developments is important to experimentation.
15 March
My morning was put on hold as I had to go to the GP for an illness. This meant that I missed the Harrods critique and was unable to present my work to the tutors for consideration. I wasn’t completely crestfallen, since I do think I would have chosen to continue with my Unit 7 regardless of the outcome. I don’t think that I could have taken the Harrods project to a fully developed place, since I was coming up with few ideas on where to conclude the project.
I had previously planned to meet my model Mika to start testing and fitting initial garment shapes of him. I decided to still go because this was the last day he would be in London before holiday, and it was important that I got a feel of his body. I was glad that I did because the basic raglan sleeve shape I had developed was much too large in the shoulder. I had to take this in quite a bit, but now I have an accurate basis on which to build the cone shapes in the sleeve.
The trousers fit him extremely well, however, and they have the perfect amount of flare in the hip that I wanted them to have. He was quite excited by the prospect of the toiles, which fuels my excitement in turn.
I am glad that I was able to have a fitting and capture some photos because now I have some images on which I can test colors with. Being able to draw on and see percentages and placements of color is really important to the final garment appearance.
13 March
Today was mostly a library work today for me, and I forced myself to stop working on Unit 7. I need to focus all my attention on completing work for the Harrods project, as the crit will be Thursday. Although I don’t feel like I will be selected, I do want to put more work into the project. I worked more into my sketchbook pages to begin emulating the sense of opulence and grandeur associated with the store.
I think that perhaps taking a more staunch fine art approach to the brief would benefit me, creating an installation piece alongside the objects. I want to create a designer branded hopscotch, as I feel that this is very much in the same realm as the products I have been making.
In the evening I attended at talk at the Sarabande foundation with Thom Browne who spoke with BOF Editor at Large Tim Blanks. I am a big fan of Browne’s work and hearing him speak about his inspirations and process was really influential. His starting point of the grey suit is really informative to my project as well, since traditional suiting plays a large part of the research. Construction is something that is incredibly important to him as well, and the idea that a garment can be work inside out and look just as beautiful is something I want to think about in building my work.
As for timetabling out the rest of my week, I want to build upon the Harrods work through until Thursday. At this point I can switch back to Unit 7 depending on the outcome of the critique.
10 March
I headed over to Marylebone to see an embroidery exhibit with Julia. I definitely felt this would be relevant to my research, as embroidery is a technique I am using for my Unit 7 work. I was particularly interested in the different stitch methods and surfaces on which the artists used for their pieces. Both machine and hand embroidery was used, and both two and three dimensional surfaces were the base for the stitchwork. I took an interest in Richard McVetis's work, which is a physical manifestation of time. Each make use of incredibly detailed stitches, and the titles refer to the length of time needed to make the piece. These create a documentation of biorhythms similar to what I am exploring in my work.
Beyond that, we also explored antique and vintage shops in Marylebone. I didn't find anything relevant to my project, but it did make me think about finding unusual sources for research. Looking beyond the internet, library, and galleries can lead to unexpected results and spark inspiration in unlikely ways.
I worked on samples with leather in the afternoon, which I thought were quite successful. I sewed rectangles of these onto kilt pins that created a graphic, linear look I was pleased with. I'm not sure if I will bring these elements forward in my project but it does make me consider my colors. I am a fan of the three tones together, but I want to experiment with different triads as well.
8 March
My day began in uni where I worked on design development drawings from my initial shape collages. I feel that the first of my two looks is decided and I can continue with drafting patterns for the jacket, but I’m still unsure about the second. I had a few different ideas but am worried that the silhouette is too similar to what I’ve done in the past. More innovative shapes are too minimal so I’m a bit torn about what I want to move forward with. I feel that I may just continue with what my gut is telling me, which is to make a pair of cropped trousers that will move better with the model I’m going to use.
I had a group tutorial in the afternoon for my Harrods project. I got some good criticisms with how to move forward, thinking of different ways to photographs the objects like handbags or clichéd consumerist products. I’m still not quite sure where the project will settle, because Danielle and Chris were not too fond of the outcome being the silk scarves. They felt that the scarves and objects could influence shape for a garment but I’m not sure I want to make a garment outcome. I stenciled and spray painted the designer logos onto the items which went well and convey the humor I want.
We had talks with various designers that were very inspiring. Hearing about different paths to success and design practices was incredibly interesting as all of these designers are well established in their own right. I definitely realize the scope that a single designer can work in, moving between career paths every decade or remaining in the same field for a long expanse of time.
This weekend I’m hoping to finish up my sketchbook for my Harrods project to finish off the work for the pitch, but also continuing with my Unit 7. I have a tutorial with Helen on Monday, so I need to get everything tidied up on Workflow as well.
6 March
Our day began with a workshop from Danielle about cutting and draping with circular shapes. I was initially a bit hesitant, as I tend to struggle with draping and working on the stand. Developing shapes organically rather than having predetermined ideas of what the outcome will be is rather uncomfortable for me as well. Danielle suggested that I work with large shapes and less flounce-type patterns in order to build a stronger menswear vibe. I started draping trousers and made a top as well that played off of the circular shapes.
I don’t think that the pieces were as successful as they were when I was paired with someone else to combine and reinvent our drapes. Leo and I had similar circular shapes, which really worked to our advantage since we could construct a much larger shape for the body. I think that our piece was very successful in that we could meld the different panels seamlessly, and we got a good response from our peers. I don’t think that my design developments were very strong; I don’t feel that I was in the mood for drawing. Rendering calico is not my favorite either, as it doesn’t really inspire shadow or color.
In the evening I worked on toileing the pair of trousers for my Unit 7 work. I definitely feel that I would like to develop this project for the remainder of the year. I definitely think that working 3-d has allowed the project to progress. I definitely need to have a fitting to finalize the shape of the trouser, as there are a few adjustments I would like to make. I think that for the sake of having a more well-constructed final outcome I will be making three garments instead of four. The embroidery process stalls the ability to construct garments in a quick timeframe, so I will need to finesse the second pair of trousers more since they will be on their own.
Tomorrow I will be going to Studio Wayne McGregor to carry out some primary research, and I will be finding objects for my Harrods project. I definitely feel that what I want achieve is possible, I just have to keep working at a speedy pace to finish.
4 March
Julia and I headed to Harrods today to carry out primary research for the brief. I found the entire situation to be quite ridiculous, firstly that the Green Men wouldn’t let us take photos of them. I rarely venture out to Knightbridge, and the shopping culture of Harrods customers is very different from that I’m used to.
I found the whole atmosphere to be a bit much, but I was most taken with some of the ridiculous items they sell. Anything from £1750 chocolate pots to Juicy Couture-esque Vetements track jackets were utterly nonsensical. I definitely take part in consumerist culture, but not to this extent. The idea of “how the other half lives” has become increasingly interesting to me.
I started thinking of different ideas to translate the feelings I had about the store into a tangible object. I began to think about how designer brands have used really banal items, and the use of their branding gives them value. Items such as Balenciaga shopping totes and fluffy Fendi keychains would normally not be purchased, but because they having a designer name attached to them they spark consumers’ interests. I came up with the idea to find cheap versions of these objects from pound shops and rebrand them as designer goods. This questions the true value of these items and makes a humorous play at Harrods.
The scene at ‘Breakfast at Tiffany’s’ where Holly and Paul get the Cracker Jack ring engraved at Tiffany’s is a particularly relevant research source for me, as I like the interplay between the high and low.
I think that the final outcome could be a series of silk scarves that have these items photographed on them. I’m not sure how my tutors will respond to the idea but at least I feel that I have a clear direction of where I want to take my project.
1 March
We had an exercise in class today where we swapped sketchbooks with someone at random and had to create samples for them. I think it was interesting to see how someone else views and responds to your work, although their taste may not be the same. The research my partner had was based on traditional headdresses, which is a topic I would never touch. I did find that working on someone else’s designs gave me confidence and freedom as you are not emotionally attached to it. I think that there can be fear in messing up your own work when meditating on it for too long.
My partner created textural responses to the Bauhaus weaves that I found interesting for their use of 2-d relief. I tend to work flat, and this made me think that I should start exploring more 3-d research sources as the project continues. Danielle gave us a quick crit and said that my work has a linear, graphic quality that is consistent throughout. I think that this is definitely a good descriptor of the type of work I like to make, and that there are different ways of interpreting that phrase.
There are a few things I would like to add to my final Unit 7 proposal, mainly the decision to make two looks (four garments) as the outcome and the use of Sebastian as a model. I feel that these are major points of my project that I should highlight since they definitely influence the way in which the outcome is viewed.
The live project briefing also occurred, where we learned that we would be working with Harrods. The inspiration is the Green Man, the doorman for the legendary store. I’m not really inspired by this currently, but I’m hoping that I can find a way in that will achieve an interesting concept. Definitely doing primary research at Harrods will help. I’m trying not to just reinvent the uniform, as I feel this is a bit of a cop out so I’m trying to push further.
27 February
I was really excited heading into class today, as we had a drawing workshop with Helen Bullock who will be our tutor for the remainder of the year. We focused on drawing techniques and actually responding to our research directly. Something Helen said that really resonated with me was that often we don’t actually respond to the research in front of us; it informs markmaking and design in subtle ways but we don’t actually directly work with it. We focused on drawing sections of the research images that we were interested in and finding ways that these could translate into design.
I’m not sure I created anything that was particularly relevant to my project, but I’m glad that I made quick response work to throw out ideas. I think that I struggle with putting ideas out on the page, and this was a good idea in doing so. Helen said to just start making work and something may come out of it, even if you’re not happy with how it looks overall. She responded positively to all the print work was making, and I definitely do enjoy designing prints though these were a bit more abstract that I like. They lacked the graphic quality that this project has had thus far.
I do feel that the different techniques that she taught us for drawing and markmaking were very useful. I can definitely bring these into my future work, as I find that they are more interesting ways of drawing than we've been taught before on this course.
25 February
I spent today preparing my work for our first taught day of this term tomorrow. I'm not quite sure how our work will be critiqued thus far by our tutors, so I'm working to make everything as presentable as possible. I realized how ambitious my ideas for my Unit 7 project are becoming (which isn't a negative by any means) but we still have to work on the industry project very soon. I definitely don't want to abandon all of the work I've put into my Unit 7 project, as I'm super invigorated by the concepts I've started to develop. I'm concerned that I won't have the time to complete all of this project to my liking as well as the industry work. There's nothing that I can really do at this point expect continue with the projects as best I can.
I've been wanting to carry out tests with models for research, but I haven't seen the boys at CSM that I usually use. I want to work in Photoshop with the liquify tool to shift the construction of the body and abstract it. Splicing up an image into strips and shifting these to create an new image is another test I could carry out. I'm hoping that Felix will be in uni on Monday, so hopefully I'll catch him at Archway.
I continued with research to find shapes for potential garments. I worked on building some collages with Schelmmer's sculptures, Savile Row suits, and Bauhaus weaves to start initial shape development. Robert Morris’s sculptures I find incredibly dynamic and intricate in their folded shapes and these definitely translate to draped structures. I find that it is difficult for me to find sources to inspire shape because many of the artists I look at work very rectangularly. Delving further into research helps to source new material for abstraction.
21 February
I worked more on developing ideas to inform shape today, as I felt that this was lacking thus far in my development. I feel that I have started to get ideas for color and texture, but shape has not been prevalent.
I started researching into sculptural art, as I find that these sources help to inform structure and silhouette best for me. Since I approach design from a flat patterncutting stand point, I often use drawn design development rather than 3-d development. As such, I often look at sculpture and more flat silhouettes to build shapes. I researched John Chamberlain‘s work for the way he is able to morph textiles to build minimalist sculpture. I like how abstract the forms are in his foam sculptures as well as how dimensional they appear.
I found some books on other choreographers who build their work in interesting ways. Merce Cunningham was an American modern dance maverick who used a computer program called DanceForms to construct shapes. This is definitely related to the interplay of man and machine.
The Bauhaus methodology of using systems to derive design work is something I want to keep in mind. There isn’t a specific way I’ve found yet to build design, but I feel like I should do so with knit. Through continual research I should be able to find a way to computerize the process.
19 February
I worked a bit on my sketchbook today and also went to see the Johanna Parv AW18 presentation in the evening. I’m finding that I’m much more skilled in creating sketchbook pages now that illustrate the concepts I’m starting to explore and spread these amongst a multitude of sheets. I found that I used to struggle with building many pages on a single concept, but this is something I feel I’ve improved at.
I found in my last project that when developing a project I have to immediately start working on sketchbook responses to my research though the concept is not necessarily solidified at this time. As I continue to explore the core research topics in greater depth the concept becomes evident. I’ve learned not to be too concerned at this stage that I don’t have a singular idea that runs through the work. If I continue to be interested in the subject matter and delve deeper into research I will build a final outcome that I am pleased with.
I did more research on optical illusions and found that the most interesting examples of these were when used in a fine art context. I should continue to find unexpected research sources to broaden the context of the project.
I attended Johanna Parv’s presentation with a friend from the foundation course, and I’m glad that I was able to attend a fashion week show of some sort. She graduated from the CSM BA Womenswear last year, and there is definitely a clear look and aesthetic that permeates her designs. I really enjoyed the subtle details in her garments, as I often find that the most interesting work is the finely detailed design work.
15 February
I spent a good amount of my day in the library today, carrying out research and working in my sketchbook to start my project development. Something that I’ve notice is how anxious I’ve been to start working in my book and making samples. I’m really pleased with how excited I am by the prospect and possibilities of my project. I always find that the more eager I am to start making and start experimenting, the more successful my outcomes will be.
I wanted to start my looking purely at the initial research source––Oskar Schlemmer’s ‘Triadic Ballet’––and creating responses to these. I think that the cross-pollination of this and traditional tailoring will begin to create this idea of interplay that is integral to the central concept of my project.
I was really surprised by how much I am enjoying the bright colors in the original work. I tend to stray away from vibrant colorways, but I think that the mix of these with muted, neutral wools could function incredibly well. I think that the colors in my last project ended quite successfully, and working with bright tones is about balancing the percentages of color. I definitely want to continue this triadic idea that forms the core of Schlemmer’s work, using triads of colors together.
I’m working with embroidery immediately in research responses, as Nancy Riegelman and I had discussed using embroideries as a main component for her drawings. Something I’m also considering very early are different making techniques I can bring into the project––I would like to experiment more with knitting and attempt machine weaving as well.
I noticed that there is a fuzzy, blurry quality to the stills from the film version of the ballet due to its age. This could translate very well into a knit with mohair, as knits materialized in this yarn have a fluffy effect. I would definitely like to sample with knit, even if this does not make it into the final garment design.