On: Sol LeWitt
The geometric patterns I found on the canvassing in my jacket reminded me a lot of Sol LeWitt's wall drawings, which I then decided to research further. Wall drawings were a central component of his artistic practice, and were systematically created with a set of instructions. I think this idea of methodical markmaking and an outcome that is clearly thought out from the start. He is quoted in a 1971 article for Art Now: "The plan exists as an idea but needs to be put into its optimum form. Ideas of wall drawings alone are contradictions of the idea of wall drawings." This concept brought forth in his quote really resonated with me; as important developing concept and working systematically is to my practice, it is just as important to test and experiment with the final form. Just having a wealth of ideas for potential pieces is not the same as executing one of those ideas. These wall drawings are something I want to reference with the series of samples.
On: Thom Browne
Thom Browne is a designer I am continually fascinated with, both because of his making process and his collections. He approaches every collection from the same starting point––his signature grey suit––and builds from there. The idea of deconstructing pattern piece was seen in his FW16 show. The model's figure is completely distorted and changed by the addition of these flat pieces. They lose their function by being used in flat setting, which really excited me and gets me thinking about ways of deconstruction that are not messy. The garments are cleaned up and polished, showing me that deconstruction can still be well-presented.
On: Jacket Interiors
One of the main areas I focused my research on was the canvassing and inner structure that constitutes a tailored jacket. Some of the best resources were vintage diagrams, as these types of tailoring are not as frequently used in contemporary design. Understanding the depth in layers that exist within this type of design is important to the deconstruction of a jacket. I really liked the visual that was created with the layering and the interlinings, primarily because this is not typically seen by the wearer of a garment. This idea of exposing the unseen is something that I find really intriguing and want to explore with the deconstruction.
On: Maison Margiela
I researched Maison Margiela's deconstruction work and found two garments that focused on the canvassing and infrastructure of the jackets. The detail of the blazer is a Spring 2004 men's jacket that consists of two different blazers fused together. This idea of cutting and reconstruction is obviously quite similar to our brief. The women's piece is a dress made entirely of suit canvas that has been padstitched. I had something like this in mind for the deconstruction prior to seeing the image, so a materialization of it is interesting to see physicalized.
On: Multi-Jacket Collaborative Installation
Following our crit of our jackets and our complementary samples, we were divided into groups to create installations using all of our garments. This process was not as interesting to me as the method by which we collaborative drew this installation––we laid our sketchbooks side-by-side and drew over all of them as if they were a single canvas. Although the final drawing was a bit abstract and not necessarily a clear representation of the installation, I think that the textures were well reflected. Because we all chose differing media to use and have very different drawing styles, this reads well in the completed drawing. As different as all the many pieces of the drawing are, I think that there is an interesting effect created by the combination of all the sections as a whole. I found it really interesting working with other people in my class on a collaborative drawing rather than a drape of an installation. I think that this is a better way to collaborate because individual styles and aesthetics become much more apparent. You can actually learn from your peers in this way, which is the point of collaboration in the end.
On: Jacket Drape
These are mid-progress images in which I was experimenting with draping the jacket with different approaches. This was ultimately the configuration that I used for the final outcome. I was finding that keeping the natural geometry of the jacket intact created the strongest effect. I reshaped the lapel and collar and used that to create a new shape for the neckline. Something that I kept in mind through draping the jacket was that the male figure and musculature was a key aspect of the final outcome I wanted to achieve. I found interesting arrangements by exposing the back, which is rarely seen in menswear. I think that there is a sense of resolution with the garment, which is really pleasing to my process. Finishing the garment as beautifully as I can is something I am intent on to have a well-presented piece.
On: Dual Jacket Sculpture
We were challenged to create different forms with our jacket, removing them from the context of a garment and rather as a piece of sculpture. I recognized early on that this exercise was to get us thinking about the different ways of working with a configured item, reinterpreting its use. The aspect that I took away from this practice was that many of the sculptures ended up looking the same. I think this is due to the fact that we aren't working methodically, but just delve into the making without standing back and assessing. I don't think that this is a smart way of working, because it often results in retrograding and fixing mistakes. I always find that the process is key.
On: Viktor & Rolf
Viktor & Rolf's work often deals with ideas of deconstruction and reconstruction, making them a great resource to look to for this brief. Their work often features extravagant silhouettes and avant-garde materializations. One garment that specifically related to the brief was the piling of layers of men's button-down shirts to form ball gowns. I particularly liked the men's look as well, as I feel it is a more subdued take of deconstruction that is not overtly extreme. This menswear piece explores the different ways a jacket can be placed on the body without completely distorting it. The placement on the body greatly affects the shapes created.